My Short List of Where to Sleep and Eat in Alexandria

View from our balcony of the pool, Corniche and beach.

Four Seasons at San Stefano

We stayed at the Four Seasons which is located at the end of the Corniche close to the Stanley Bridge and Montazah Palace.  Since it was Ramadan and the hotel mostly empty, we were offered a great rate.

It is the Four Seasons after all, but some caveats.  The hotel, which only has about 100 rooms, is housed in a monstrously large building.  I believe most are residences.  It is also attached to a shopping mall.  The positive, all you need to do is go through the doors separating the hotel lobby from the mall, and you are in mall paradise, replete with fast food court, trendy stores and most useful, a supermarket. 

The hotel has a beautiful view of the Mediterranean and the beach in front but it is separated from its own beach by the very busy Corniche.  However, you don’t have to worry about being run over by a car while trying to get to the beach.  The hotel built a passageway under the Corniche…clever!  The service was good and friendly (and in one instance, amazing.  My younger daughter spilled karkade juice, hibiscus, all over her outfit at dinner on the beach.  The stuff is red and I am sure super staining.  As soon as the staff saw our plight and saw that I had a change of clothes for our girl, they took her stained and wet clothes from us.  And an hour or so later, the entire outfit was returned to us pressed and cleaned.  Wow!!) 

Dress and shirt which were whisked away and cleaned immediately!

However, I am not giving it excellent for service because of the waitstaff at breakfast.  They were passable.  Having said all this, it was wonderful staying at the Four Seasons.   Our rooms were beautiful with a large balcony overlooking the Corniche and the sea.  The hotel boasts an indoor and outdoor pool and the biggest spa I have ever seen!  And most of the time, I had the amazing locker room and showers all to myself!  It also has a good gym and a squash court.  (There were separate workout rooms for men and women.)

Greek Maritime Club and The Fish Market

The Maritime Club's beach and Alexandria's cityscape.

For dinner on our first day in Alexandria, we chose the Greek Maritime Club, located right next to Fort Quaitbey.  The entrance is nondescript and once you open the doors, you doubt yourself of your choice.  At this point, shake off the bad vibes and proceed upstairs where a grand vista of the harbor and the city skyline greet you.  We chose a table on the balcony and enjoyed the beautiful sunshine, gorgeous view and delicious fish.  Not to say the meal wasn’t without some excitement.   My father-in-law and my husband wanted beer with their meal.  Our server did not want to serve them beer.  Egypt’s population is mostly Muslim and alcohol is a no-no.  We went back and forth to no avail until my mother-in-law produced her US passport and the boys were rewarded with two cold beers.  Exchanges like this make life interesting.

My in-laws recently ate at Fish Market, another popular seafood restaurant on the Corniche.  They declared the Greek Maritime Club a better choice.

Fresca, Four Seasons

Fresca was our choice for casual dining.  It serves pizzas, pasta and other Italian fare.  If it weren’t for our girls and the inconvenience of getting in the car and driving around in the traffic, I would definitely opt for any of the myriad seafood restaurants in town over Fresca.  Fresca is clean, bright and serves decent food.

Keeping within the theme of not venturing too far from the hotel, we had a lovely outdoor buffet on the beach one night.  The hotel has special feasts, iftar, during Ramadan.  During Ramadan, the people fast during the day and break their fasts at sunset, partaking in iftar.

Alexandria – A Gem on the Mediterranean

View of the harbor and of the Bibliotheque Alexandrina in the distance.

I prefer Alexandria to Cairo.  Even with the majestic Nile coursing through the city, Cairo remains dusty, drab and chaotic for me.  I much prefer the blueness of the Mediterranean, the elegant but busy Corniche, the crumbling Roman ruins and the salt air and seafood of Alexandria.  Cairo has the pyramids but Alexandria also boasts one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the great tower, Pharos.  Unfortunately, not much of the tower is left so one is left to imagine its grandeur.  Sometimes I prefer my imagination to the realities of life.

There is a sense of languidness in Alexandria that one does not feel in frenetic Cairo.  You can see all you need to see in Alexandria in about 2 days but it would be so much more enjoyable to spend a couple more days just gazing out at the sea.

Sights of Alexandria

Street scene opposite the entrance to the catacombs.

Catacombs of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa (Tuesday, August 25, 2009)

We left for Alexandria from Balah by car.  The drive takes a little over an hour.  Since our first stop was the Catacombs of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa our driver drove us through a very different part of town than we were used to approaching Alexandria.  The part we drove through was very run down and did not look safe.  My mother-in-law did not like it one bit.  I think that if you were visiting the Catacombs from your hotel, you do not have to go through the parts of the city that we did, so rest assured.  The catacombs are definitely worth a visit.  The Lonely Planet called the catacombs “impressive” and they are!!

The catacombs were built for a wealthy Roman family over 2000 years ago.  Most of it is intact and underground.  I loved the fact that it was underground, cool and dark, a respite from the unrelenting sun and heat.  When we stepped down the circular steps into the burial chambers, all I could think of was “Wow!  We are Indiana Jones!  We’ve discovered a secret chamber full of treasures!”  It’s really the sense you get…the kids will love it and the kid in you will love it!  A little tip to the guard underground gets you a personal tour.

The tombs were supposedly discovered when a donkey fell through into the chamber in 1900.  The guard showed us the remains of the unlucky donkey.  The girls were most fascinated by, you guessed it, the story of the unlucky donkey and its remains. 

The catacombs were our favorite tourist spot.  When I mentioned this to my husband’s cousin who is a judge in Alexandria, he laughed and could not understand why anyone would want to visit a hole in the ground – I tell you, it is a magnificent hole in the ground, not to be missed!!

http://www.touregypt.net/alcataco.htm 

Pompey’s Pillar (Tuesday, August 25, 2009)

It’s a pillar…OK, it’s a very large pillar, nearly 2000 years old, but it’s a pillar.  You will see it on your way to or back from Kom Ash-Shuqqafa.  Our driver wanted to stop the car so we could get out and take a look at the pillar.  I did not think it was worth getting the girls out of their car seats and walking around in the hot sun.  I am sure many will disagree with me.  I decided we could all take a look at it from the car, no one seemed to have the energy to do otherwise.

Fort Qaitbey (Tuesday, August 25, 2009)

The thing about Alexandria is its spectacular setting on the Mediterranean.   The fort anchors the eastern end of the Corniche.  You can climb all around the fort and enjoy the incredible views of the sea, the harbor and the city.  The fort is purportedly built on the ruins of the lighthouse, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, which stood for 17 centuries.

http://www.touregypt.net/alqaitbe.htm

Kom Al-Dikka, Roman Amphitheatre (Friday, August 28, 2009)

Kom Al-Dikka translates to Mound of Rubble.  That term could apply to so many places.  If one had to choose between Kom Ash-Shuqqafa and Kom Al-Dikka, absolutely no contest, pick Kom Ash-Shuqqafa.  However, this is your only chance to see a Roman Amphitheatre in Egypt.  Obviously there are better places to see more impressive amphitheatres but you are here in Alexandria so why not.  Just don’t go when it is blazing hot.  There is barely any shade at Kom Al-Dikka and the girls did not enjoy their visit one bit.  The Villa of the Birds inside Kom Al-Dikka is touted as a must see for its mosaics, requiring extra admission.  The mosaics are indeed intricate but I did not feel the magic.  I think one can skip it without guilt.  We opted to see it.  The guard at the villa was gone so my husband had to go in search of the guard first.  It definitely wasn’t worth him running around in the hot sun to find the guard.  As with the catacombs, my husband’s cousin, the judge, laughed and told us Kom Al-Dikka was a definite waste of time (but I think he thinks anything old is a waste of time).  Instead he urged us to visit the new library at Alexandria and hooked us up with his contact for a tour.

http://www.touregypt.net/alromthe.htm

Bibliotheca Alexandrina (Friday, August 28, 2009)

Inside the library.

What a tragedy and a horrific loss to the world that the ancient library of Alexandria was destroyed.  In its place is a modern glass, stone and steel building evoking a sun rising.  (I read that in a guide book.  I wouldn’t have guessed otherwise.)

We were set for the tour thanks to the judge but we still had to buy tickets to gain entry.  I am not proud of this, but we had to fudge our younger daughter’s age.  Apparently 4 was too young to gain admission into the library which I thought was strange. 

Once inside, we were met by our contact who was a very informative and friendly guide.  She walked us through the Antiquities Museum located in the basement of the library.  If you are interested in seeing a mosaic, then skip the Villa of the Birds and visit the Antiquities Museum.  It displays beautifully a mosaic of a dog uncovered when the library was built.  Perhaps because of our excellent guide, we all thoroughly enjoyed the museum.

We then joined a general tour group for the rest of the library tour.  The library is large, modern and airy.  It is an impressive library.  I don’t think I would feel the  need to see it but I highly recommend the Antiquities Museum inside it.

http://www.bibalex.org/Home/Default_EN.aspx

Montazah Palace (Friday, August 28, 2009)

The palace sits amidst a large garden situated along the water at one end of the Corniche.  The Palace was once the summer palace of King Farouk.  The grounds are open to the public but the palace itself is off limits; apparently in use by President Mubarak when he is in town. 

There are beautiful views to be had all around you at Montazah Palace.  This would make for a nice afternoon and you could have lunch as well.  There are a couple of hotels on the grounds.  One is the Salamlek Palace Hotel…I am a sucker for historic hotels so this one gets my vote.

http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Africa/Egypt/Muhafazat_al_Iskandariyah/Alexandria-2009064/Things_To_Do-Alexandria-Montazah_palace_and_gardens-BR-1.html 

Midan Saad Zaghloul (Friday, August 28, 2009)

This is a beautiful little square bounded by the Corniche and the Cecil Hotel, a historic hotel run by the Sofitel group.  (As a side note, I like the Sofitel chain for its historic hotels.  If I can swing it I like staying in these old hotels.  We didn’t stay at the Cecil but we did stay at the Winter Palace in Luxor, another Sofitel hotel.  Gorgeous, highly recommended.)  I ran inside the Cecil Hotel to gawk at its old elevator and lobby. 

We hired a horse drawn carriage at the square and rode around town.  Fun!  If you have kids you must hire a carriage.

Graeco-Roman Museum

We didn’t visit this museum on this trip.  I did tour it before kids many years ago.  I remember it to be a nice manageable museum with lots of artifacts and an inviting courtyard.  It did close temporarily for renovation.

 http://www.touregypt.net/algraec.htm